HOW TO EAT DURIAN FRUIT

Durian, looking much like a large spiky tribble (spot the Star Trek reference!), comes in nine edible varieties and is native to southeast Asia. It's sold in markets all over the Asian world and now, even in North America. By the time it's arrived on our shores, its smell is barely perceptible.

People have different ways of picking durian fruit, to see if it's ready to eat. My parents like to smell the bottom of the stem. If it emits a strong smell, then it's ready to consume. Some people prefer the tapping method. Hitting the fruit with a stick and hearing the appropriate slightly-hollow "thunk" sound. Of course, this is something you'd have to learn from a durian jedi.

Durian's brownish-green exterior belies a silky, custard-like flesh clinging to the giant seeds inside. My parents usually lay out newspaper on their kitchen floor in order to cut the fruit in half using a cleaver. It will reveal four seeds covered in pale yellow flesh. You dig out a giant seed and proceed to suck the creamy flesh. Beware, it's very filling. Durian, if you can stand the smell, has a delectable, sweet flavour. For me, it's akin to vanilla pudding.

I have an ethnic bond to durian. According to the experts, the locus of durian diversity is on the island of Borneo where I was born. Those on Borneo have a passion for durian fruit that is also shared by the orangutans of the island.

While durian fruit is not native to Thailand, the country has become the largest exporter of the fruit. It was introduced to Thailand during the 18th century.

Other durian-growing regions include Vietnam, Myanmar, India, Sri Lanka, Florida, Hawaii, Madagascar and Mindanao in the Philippines. By the way, the Kadayawan festival in Davao City, Mindanao has an annual celebration featuring durian. I have also heard of similar festivals in Thailand.

Remember when purchasing durian to look for the "24" category. It's got the deepest flavours.